My trip started aboard the lunch time cruise of The Earnslaw – a 168m steamliner operating on a triple expansion steam engine that consumes one tonne of coal per hour to attain a cruising speed of 12 knots. Despite the choppy conditions it was a quick and comfortable cruise, made all the better by positioning myself atop a seat besides the toasty warm chimney stack.
Luckily my bike was stowed in the forward cabin which meant I was able to disembark as soon as we docked, making a quick escape whilst the rest of the passengers waited for the gangplank to be positioned abroad the top deck.
This I left the tourists to their farm tour and hearty lunch and began my long journey inland. It wasn’t long before I was chasing wayward sheep that had somehow escape their paddocks and dodging cow pats. Wrapped up in my raincoat I wound along the gravel track that joins Walter Peak Station to Mt Nicholas Station. The breeze was fresh on the face and squalls of rain came and went.
As you leave the two stations and head inland you follow the meandering Von River, and soon after removing my shoes for the first of two river crossing, the pastures became dominated by unfenced Hereford cattle. It soon became apparent that the cattle’s preferred ‘safe space’ – when startled by my rattling bike – was within the thorny bushes alongside the river. This meant they would gallop, hell-bent on out-running me to cross the road ahead of me. The braver of the creatures preferred to stand their ground, thus aggressive threats of ‘beef Pattie’s’ or ‘bbq burger’ were shouted along with wildly agitated arms. I found all of this was quite alarming, until many kilometres later I finally approached the cattle grate that would finally seperate me from my bovine friends. Just before my safe escape I rolled by a bull the size of a small condo with an impressively horned head just metres off the road. He eyed me up and stomped his hoof as I approached. All I can say is that I almost added to the shit on the road!
Free of the cattle, Von Hill was now waiting for me. Halfway into the ride, Von River cuts into a gorge which means the road goes up and over Von Hill – the only obstacle on an otherwise pretty easy ride. The prize at the top of the 3km haul upwards is the stunning Eyre Mountains and plains.
Once on the plains it’s a pretty straight forward flat route with a stunning backdrop – made all the better by leaving the rain behind.
Shortly before the turnoff to Mavora Lakes there is a Shuttle Bus shelter equipped with long-drop and fresh water. Since I was in no hurry to get to the Lakes and their accompanying sandflies I decided to have an early dinner at the shelter. Then I had a brain-wave, why not just camp in the shelter – I had only seen two cars all day – who would know – and it would also save me about 10km of riding to and from the lakes.
I spent a relaxing couple of hours pottering about my new home and set up my bed for the night. Then just as dusk arrived a farming family rocked up in a truck and parked atop the lookout opposite my shelter. I dove inside my shelter not wanting to be found out as a blatant disobey’er of the no camping rules attached to the cabin. I spied on them out my little window as they admired the view – my view!! When would they leave?
Finally they all piled back into their truck, and just as I think I’m finally free of the intruders, they park right outside the door the shelter, and the farmer’s wife jumps out with a roll of toilet-paper! So here I am, cowering in the corner of my cabin like a frighten rabbit sacred of being sprung as an illegal squatter on quite possibly their land. I was figuratively pooing my pants. I’m not sure who would have been more surprised had they entered my hut, however they did not, and finally paradise was returned to just me.
Mooching It with Juliet Jones 